Mount Ama Dablam (6,812meter/ 22,349feet) is one of the most prominent mountain peaks which lies in the Everest region of Nepal. Ama Dablam is dreamt about the mountain to summit both for novices and for experienced climbers where they can test their all-climbing skills at their best.
This striking peak can be seen on the way to Everest base camp which is situated northeast of lower Pangboche village(3900m) across the Khumbu River. Ama Dablam literally means “mother’s necklace”, an iconic mountain which no one can be helped without noticing while trekking to Everest base camp.
To the mount Ama Dablam, the first recorded ascent took place in 1961 by Sir Edmund Hillary which at first, he thought it’s unclimbable when he was here in 1951 on a British expedition.
Since its ascension, this 6812-meter-high mountain has become a great attraction among visitors as hundreds of climbers arrive at its base to summit this beautiful mountain.
The summit of mount Ama Dablam provides you breathtaking 3600 view of surrounding mountains which includes the world’s highest Mount Everest(8848.86 m), 3rd highest mount Kanchenjunga(8586m), 4th highest mount Lhotse(8516m), 5th highest mount Makalu(8463m), Thamserku, Khantega and many other surrounding mountains.
To inform princes of Qatar have come in recent pandemic and submitted Ama Dablam whereas he had summited Mount Everest in 2013. So, you can figure out the charm of climbing Mount Ama Dablam.
Getting to the trailhead and climbing route to mount Ama Dablam.
Although you can reach the gateway of Everest which is Lukla(2840m) via Jiri with 7 days walk and via Salieri with 3 days walk, the best way and as well as time-saving way is to take a flight to Lukla airport which only takes about 30 minutes to reach from Kathmandu airport.
After landing at Lukla your actual adventure journey begins from Lukla following the similar route to Everest base camp trek. It takes about 5 days to reach Pangboche from Lukla which is the nearest village from where your approach trek to Ama Dablam begins.
It takes about 3 hours to reach the base camp of this iconic mountain from Pangboche. Ama Dablam base camp (4600meter/ 15092feet) is situated in a lovely setting in an alpine meadow at 4600 meters above sea level which provides a magnificent view of surrounding mountains.
There are two lodges and several tents during the climbing season to mark the locality of Ama Dablam base camp. Besides Streams running through the meadow supplies the main source of water for climbers.
You have a few days of acclimatization at base camp before setting foot on mount Ama Dablam. Then we use two camps before the summit (some use three camps) in which the process of acclimatization, rest, and recovery take place climbing upper camps and back to base camp.
When you are well acclimatizing and ready the actual Climb to the summit goes camping one (5700m.) via an interim camp which is mostly scrambling on rocks and rock slabs. After this, you can use fixed ropes all the way to the summit which are already fixed by Sherpa for your safety.
Camp one to camp two (6000m.) is a vertical climb mainly on rock slabs with few snow and ice sections and also pass-through technical sections of the yellow tower before camp two.
The last push for the summit starts early in the morning and this section involves many vertical climbs through snow ridge and gully and traditional camp three(6300m.) which is by the hanging serac. Eventually, the climb passes through mushroom ridge which takes you to the summit of mount Ama Dablam(6812m).