How hard is climbing to Chulu Far East Peak?
Actually, Chulu Far East Peak is considered an easier peak compared to other peaks in Nepal and has a success rate of 95%. This peak doesn’t have the risk of craves and serac fall. However, this peak also demands good physical fitness for climbing.
In the Chulu Far East, the real climbing adventure begins walking after Ngawal (3660m) from where we ascend to Chulu Base Camp(3800m) which is a steep climb. After acclimatization and little training about using the climbing gears, our real adventure begins.
On the following day, it is a shorter climb to high camp (5330) which only takes about 3-4 hours, which is mostly treading upon the moraine terrain where again we spend most of the afternoon acclimatizing yourself.
The final day of the climb starts from high camp which we start early in the morning as during the afternoon there are most possibilities of strong wind, this might affect our pace and stamina.
Our climbs walk up following the east north ridge and eventually we get to the crampoon point from where we suit on our climbing gear. Here on our climb goes on the ice which is at first gradual and some steep sections where our climbing Sherpa fixes the rope for safety.
The last part for the summit ridge is really exposed and follows the ridgeline gradually to the top but the reward from the top is magnificent.
What are the required permits and costs for climbing Chulu Far East Peak?
Climbers need to have three different permits for Chulu Far East Peak. As Chulu Peak lies in the Annapurna region so we need a permit to enter Annapurna Conservation Area.
This is called Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) which costs Rs 3000 local currency and also we need to have TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System) Permit, this costs USD10 for organized trekkers and USD 20 for Individual/ Unorganized trekkers.
Organized trekkers are those, who trek or climb conservation areas with local trekking agencies, and those who prefer to go solo or by themselves are called Individual/ Unorganized trekkers.
Apart from the two above mention permits, climbers also need to have a climbing permit for Chulu Peak. This cost varies according to the season of the year.
Climbing permit for ChuluFar East costs 250 USD per person during the Spring Season (March, April, May), 125 USD during the Autumn Season (September, October, November), and 70 USD for the Winter and Summer season (December, January, February, and June, July, and August).
Along with a deposit of 500 USD as part of a ‘garbage deposit’ applicable for all peak climbing in Nepal. This deposit is refundable after climbing.
Which is the best season to climb Chulu Far East Peak?
The Spring season is one of the best seasons to climb Chulu Far East Peak, which falls in the months of March, April, and May.
During this season weather is relatively warmer, the sky remains clear, and very little chance of snow on the mountain as well as ices remain compact which is good for championing and clear view of the Himalayas.
·Autumn is another good season to summit mountains which falls in the months of September to November as this season begins just after the rainy season which is less moist, clearer sky, temperate weather.
You need a duffel bag that is supposed to be waterproof with a strap along with a TSA lock. in your duffel bag, you keep all the clothes and essentials gears while trekking and up to island peak base camp which will be carried by our porter. Regarding the size, you can choose from 100 liters to 140 liters duffel as this size all you to fit most of the things you need for trekking.
it is the most important piece of equipment for trekking and climbing. Normally the smaller and lighter the size, the more expensive it is. Regarding the warmth of sleeping bags, down sleeping bags are warmer than synthetic ones. you need to bring the sleeping bag that rates up to -20c and a liner just in case it feels colder.
It's a daypack bag that you carry while waking where you put your wallet, camera, water bottle, rain cover, fleece jacket, and windproof jacket. Regarding the size of the daypack bag, the size of a small-medium 30 to 40-liters day bag with some side pockets where you can fit your water bottle or gloves is good. Moreover, if you can fit your Camelbak in your daily carry it is more efficient in the coldest weather as your water doesn't get freeze.
You can bring two water bottles in which you can drink in one and treat water in another to refill again. (Nalgene water bottle is good as you can put hot water as well if you want) you also can bring Camelbak which can be very handy for climbing.
- Short sleeve synthetic t-shirts*3(while trekking you sweats a lot so, synthetic t-shirts are best to bring as they are light and dry fast)
- Wind shirts*1
- Long sleeve Merino wool t-shirts*2
- Synthetic insulated jacket (you can use it for climbing as well)
- Fleece glove
- Insulated gloves
- Buff (trail gets very dusty with trekkers and animals passing by you so, you can use it as a mask)
- Sun hat
- Fleece hat
- Rain gear or poncho.
- Trekking shoes (prober boots with grip is recommended as trail are rough so you might twist your ankle)
- Slipper or lightweight shoes (it is handy to wear in the guest house when you have done day trekking)
- Cotton hiking shocks
- Hiking pants*2
- Fleece trouser
- Underwear trousers*2
- Waterproof paint
- Miscellaneous items
- Items for drinking water treatments such as steripen, iodine tablets, chlorine liquids, or water filters. (if you using liquids or tablets it might bring a different taste in water so you can bring some juice-powder to bring a nice taste)
- Fast drying-camp towel (most guesthouses doesn't provide a towel for a shower so it's good to have one)
- body wipes (it comes in handy if you don't take shower, especially in higher altitudes where there are no showers)
- toilet papers
- lip bam
- Sunscreens (minimum of SPF 40 plus as in higher altitude sunlight are direct and more penetrating.
- Earplugs (it is handy stuff as most guest house rooms are separated by plywood. So, sometimes your next room trekkers might be noisy talkers or snores.
- Mobile phone (you can use it as an alarm or there are internet services in most of the guesthouses so, you can use it if you want to communicate)
- Chargers with an adapter (you can charge your gadgets along the trail by hydro-powered electricity in the lower region and sun-powered in the higher region)
- Medical kit (Diamox, Imodium, ibuprofen, throat lozenges, tape, scissor,
- Zip-lock plastic bag (Although you put your all stuff in a duffel bag however Zip-lock bag can come in handy while you want to separate your items like toiletries, socks, underwear, smelly clothes)
- Headlamp or torchlight
- Hand sanitizer
- Trekking sticks (most people use them and it is very helpful while walking rocky trails and especially for knees going downhill.
- Pocket knife
- Pee-bottle (it's handy if you don't want to go out of the room during the night)
For climbing our company arrange accommodation at the base intent as well as food and guide. We also provide that equipment for climbing such as ropes, ice hammers, ice screws. If you need a porter for carrying your day pack while climbing on the mountain we also arrange an additional cost of $70 USD.
Buying climbing gears are more expensive back home so, in which we can arrange all the gears for an additional cost of $200 USD. (cost of the renting gears keep changing so, please enquire for updated price)
These are the lists below you need to bring for Chulu Far East Peak Climbing.
- Synthetic insulated paint
- Shell jacket (which you can put on top of the down jacket while climbing)
- Insulated snow pant
- Thick climbing shocks
- Mountaineering boot
- Snow goggle
- Climbing harness
- Ice ax
- Belay device (black diamond ATC XP which is perfect for the progressive climber, excellent braking capabilities, and durable design)
- Climbing helmet
- Locking carabineers*2 (D shaped)
- Non-locking carabineers
- Mountaineering gloves