Chulu east peak is situated in the western part of Nepal and lies in the Annapurna region which is a part of Gungang Himal. Chulu east peak is 6584 meters mountain that is the most popular peak among the four Chulu peaks group such as “Chulu west”, “Chulu far east” and “Chulu central”.
This peak lies to the north of the major Annapurna massif and is bounded by the Marshyangdi River to the south. Although climbing Chulu east is not very technical, it is a challenging adventure that demands good physical condition and fitness.
Chulu East is to the southwest of Chulu Far East peak which comprises “base camp”, “high camp”, and “camp I” before the summit.
During the climbing expedition of Chulu east peak, the same route is used until the Chulu Far East base camp (4800m) and high camp (5330m). From the summit of Chulu east, you can take in the bird-eye 360-degree view of snow-capped mountains which includes Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Annapurna I, Tilicho peak, Damodar Himal and so many other major mountains.
Climbing route to Chulu east peak
Chulu east peak is not a technical climb mountain and doesn’t have a high risk of avalanches. There are a high number of successes in summiting on this mountain however, it requires some fitness and high-altitude trekking experience.
The expedition for Chulu east peak starts after leaving the village of Ngawal (3660m) and climbs up to the base camp (4800m) on the moraine where we take two nights for acclimatization and for the training in rope handling, using the crampons, ice Axe, ascender, and descender, etc.
On the next, it climbs to high camp(5330m) which only takes about 4 hours to reach, and afternoon acclimatization again. On the following day, it climbs steeply to the ridge and then follows the ridge beside the glacier which takes you to camp I (6000m) on the glacier.
The final summit day starts early in the morning as there is always a chance of getting windy on the top of the mountain in the afternoon. So, putting on the gear we climb up to the top with the support of the fixed rope which is fixed by our climbing Sherpa the day before. The summit of Chulu east peak provides an outstanding mountain view with a higher perspective.
Chulu east peak permits and costs.
The climbing permit of Chulu east costs $400 USD per person during the spring season (March to May) but it only costs $200 USD during the autumn season (September, October). And if you are well prepared for cold and severe conditions it only costs $100 USD during the season of winter (December-February) and summer (June to August).
As well as you have to deposit $500 USD as part of the garbage deposit which is to be returned after the climbing and fulfilling the certain procedure.
What is the best time to climb Chulu east peak?
The months of March to May (spring season) are the best months in Nepal for climbing peaks and so for Chulu east peak. During this time the weather is warmer and has better compact ice for crampons. As well as there is very little chance of snowing so the sky is clear.
Another best month is September to November (autumn season) which is less humid and the sky starts clearing as well as the temperature is temperate during this time.